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1. Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park is located on the southeastern part of the the Big Island. It was about a 100-mile drive from where we were staying - Kailua-Kona. It took us over 2 hours. It is about 30 miles from Hilo and my recommendation is to stay in Hilo the night you go to the Park and then go back to the Park the next day. There is so much to do here, we only hit the tip of the iceberg and we spent well over 12 hours here! The lava started flowing right before we got to this amazing place but it isn't Disney World so the lava is unpredictable. There is a lot more to do here though than see the lava but it is a major event.
The Kilauea Visitor Center, just off Highway 11 is open daily from 7:45am - 5:00pm year round but we could have stayed in the park all night at the end of Crater Chain Road watching the lava flowing. You can find out about the eruptions on the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory's website at http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov.
What to bring
If you are planning on doing anything other than visiting the Park driving the Crater Rim Drive, which by the way descends 3700 feet to the coast and ends where lava blocked the road in 1995, you will need:
What to do and what you will see at Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park
1. There are over 150 miles of trails in the park. Make sure you get a guide to Hiking Park Trails. at the Visitor Center.
2. There are 2 campgrounds, which are wheel chair accessible. It is on a first come first serve basis. It is free and limited to seven days a year.
3. You will see and smell Sulphur Banks (if you want). This happens when "hydrogen sulphide gas and steam form deposits of sulphur, gypsum and hematite on the ground." (From Hawaii, The Big Island Revealed by Andrew Doughty and Harriett Friedman- a must have book). There are signs cautioning people who have heart problems, are pregnant or have respiratory problems not to go. My husband has asthma and he had no problem with the sulphur, but that will be your call.
4. The Steam Vents are really quite a phenomenon. This happens when rain seeps into the ground and gets heated by Kilauea and comes out as steam. It is really a site to see!
5. We did all the must sees including Jagger Museum, all the overlooks and a short paved walk called Devastation Trail named for the devastation that happened during the Kilauea Iki's 1959 eruption. That one is considered easy, is a 1 mile round trip walk and is great if you have a stroller or are in a wheelchair.
6. Thurston Lava Tube is considered a must see by many. It is a natural lava tube, which is indicative of how lava travels. Most of it is really easy walking and well lit. You can then leave or continue but will need a flashlight because it is pitch dark. We did not continue because we were anxious to get on to our hike and the lava.
7. From the overlooks you will see the trail called Kilauea Iki. You look down on what looks like a flat surface (It is the top of the crater.) and can actually see what looks like a path. This is the hike we took. It is considered moderate to challenging, it makes a 4-mile loop and took us about 2 1/2 hours. We were told to give ourselves between 2-3 hours. If you can do this, do it. It is a once in a lifetime experience.
2. The Road to Hana on Maui
This is a 55-mile drive along the coast made up of rainforest and some of the most gorgeous sites you'll see that will take you at least 2 hours if you don't stop! It winds around taro patches (You have to buy Taro chips. They sell them in the mainland, but they are not the same!), views of the sea and waterfalls. Some of the roads are very narrow and even when they aren't you will be driving slowly so plan on a long day.
You'll want to get a CD that will guide you through the Road to Hanna. I also highly recommend Maui Revealed by Andrew Doughty and Harriett Friedman.
This is another area I would suggest staying at the end of the road, which we didn't do. If you can book a room in Hana you'll be able to spend the next day exploring as well rather than doing a 2 hour drive at 10:00 at night on these narrow roads.
some of our most memorable stops included the Twin Falls. These are the first of countless waterfalls you will encounter.
The treat of the day was the bamboo forest. This is not marked in any way. Before mile marker #7 stop. You will see cars parked and you will have no idea why or where the people in them are. Walk away from mile marker #7 and grab a bamboo cane to help you walk (Make sure it is lying on the ground. People leave them so you shouldn't have any trouble finding one.) and watch where people are coming out of. You will enter a bamboo forest and unless bamboo forests are something you see in your daily life you will not be prepared for the breathtaking feeling of being surround by huge, thick bamboo trees.
There are four waterfalls here and though it was a bit scary just go slowly and you'll be in for a treat. Go for a swim in the clear blue pool at the bottom of the last waterfall. We stopped at the village of Keanae and I would suggest doing so. You will see a stand with wonderful banana bread, coconut candy, smoothies, and pineapples. Then look to the ocean and park there. You will find clean restrooms and a gorgeous view of this peninsula.
Seven Sacred Pools has actually about 24 pools and is considered sacred water. The area is absolutely gorgeous with the Pacific Ocean lapping at the edge of the bottom level of the pools. There are many levels if you want to climb and nude swimming is common at the top. There is a ranger station and plenty of parking. There is no fee but there are bathrooms. The ranger station is only open until 5:00pm but the bathrooms were open when we were there, which was around 7:00pm.
3. On the island of Oahu you'll visit the USS Arizona Memorial. On December 7, 1941 Pearl Harbor was attacked. This was the culmination of years of bad relations between Japan and the United States. The USS Arizona is the final resting place for many of the 1,777 crew who died on that day.
The USS Arizona is located on the Pearl Harbor Navy Base. You have to go to the Visitor Center first which is located on the shoreline overlooking Pearl Harbor directly off State Highway 99 (Kamehameha Highway). It is about a 45-minute drive west of Waikiki. There is free parking for about 250 cars.
The Visitor Center is open daily from 7:30am to 5:00pm. The last program begins at 3:00pm. The Visitor Center and Memorial are closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years.
All tours are free and on a first come first serve basis. You want to get there by 1:00 to make sure you get on a boat. During that time there is a museum and bookstore and plaques along the perimeter to read what you are looking at from across the water.
When your time is called you will board a small but big enough for a bathroom boat that takes you to the Memorial. It is a very short trip. You will not need Dramamine or Bonine...I promise! Even if it is raining there is plenty of covered areas both while you are waiting and at the Memorial itself. You'll spend about 20 minute on the USS Arizona.
What you will see at the Memorial
This is a very moving tribute but it is not intended to be sad. In fact, it was built to sag in the center but is strong at the ends which expresses initial defeat and then victory. You will find it very quiet at the Memorial. It is intended to be a place of serenity where you can feel your one response. As you approach you will see the United States flag flying from the flagpole which is attached to the severed mainmast of the sunken battleship. I didn't realize that not all of the ship is underwater. Some of it can be seen both from the Memorial and in areas under it where there are open spaces for viewing purposes.
I was struck by a couple of things. One was that there is still oil spilling out from this ship. It can clearly be seen in the water. The second iwas a plaque that had names on it of people who had died recently. These were people who served on the USS Arizona who chose to be interned there.
If your child doesn't understand death, don't let that stop you from going. If he or she is too little to understand then it won't matter and if he is old enough to understand, this is a good way of talking about the casualties of war. (Just my view)
4. Also on Oahu is Diamond Head State Monument. Diamond Head can be seen just about anywhere on Oahu (unless you are under water!) You can go to http://away.com/parks/park1087.adp to find out a bit of information and see some pictures.
It is the crater of a volcano, which has been extinct for 150,000 years so when you get to the top you look down into a very large hole. The Monument opens at 6:30 am and closes at 6:00 pm all year round. It is $1.00 if you walk in and $5.00 per car. There is plenty of parking.
What you will find at Diamond Head
1. The only restroom is at the bottom. There really isn't a visitor center, just a place to pay your money. Try to not have to go to the bathroom because there isn't even anyplace to go in the woods - one of the few places in Hawaii I found that to be true.
2. It was very well maintained. The trail up is, for the most part, was not too difficult (some may disagree). I say it wasn't difficult because there were handrails throughout the whole 1.4 mile round trip journey and although you will encounter some lava to climb over, this was a piece of cake compared to what we did on other hikes.
3. You will find tunnels and it is recommended that you bring a flashlight. We did but with the handrails we really didn't need them though they were nice to have.
4. You start you ascent on this 760-foot crater, which is steep so wear sneakers or hiking boots. Bring binoculars!
Even at 5:00pm as we went down, but especially going up, it was hot. It was hotter than I had expected so be prepared but once you hit the top you will find a nice cool breeze and it will be worth it. Wear a hat, wear suntan lotion and make sure you have a bottle of water per person! There is no water on this trail and no Starbucks when you hit the top.
You may read that it will take you 2 hours for this trip and it may, but if you are pressed for time and only have an hour and can hike, go for it but if you can squeeze in 2 hours, you will enjoy it more. You won't need more than 2 hours unless you plan on having a picnic on the top.
Even at that time of the day, there were plenty of people. There weren't enough for me to call the observation posts crowded, but close to it, so I would recommend that you go early in the morning when it should be less crowded and not as hot.. The view at the top is one of the most impressive I have seen. You will see the row of hotels, a stadium, as well as the lighthouse and gorgeous blue water.
5. Haleakala National Park on Maui is a must, must do.
Haleakala is not a crater as much as it looks like one from various positions. It is actually a valley, which was carved into a volcano by thousands of years of erosion. It is technically called a shield volcano because its sides slope gradually. Haleaka's name means House of the Sun with a summit of 10,023 feet. At the top you will look down into the "crater" or valley of the world's largest dormant volcano. It is considered active but hasn't done anything since the late 18th century. The valley is so big it would hold Manhattan.
Leave early in the morning. You will have better views because later in the day the clouds and fog may be so thick that it is hard to see anything. But as you will hear, this is not Disneyland and you could have a foggy, rainy morning and a sunny clear afternoon. We had a great day in terms of weather.A very popular activity is to bicycle down from the summit on the road. The fee is $10.00 per car, which is good for one week.
What you will find at Haleakala National Park
You want to drive to the summit, if you can. I say, if you can, because it is 37 miles from Kahuli which takes about 2 hours each way with no stops. I also say that because there are intimidating signs everywhere about the altitude. People who smoke, are pregnant, have asthma or a heart condition are especially warned. You will be warned that the lack of oxygen may cause nausea, headaches, shortness of breath, dizziness and/or dehydration.
The first park entrance which is actually about 1 mile in as you enter the Park is the Park Headquarters Visitor Center where you will pay your money and you can get a drink of water and use the restroom. You can also get camping permits here, make a phone call and pick up programs of activities and information. This is open 7:30am - 4:00pm every day. The park is always open but remember to stay overnight you need a permit.
There are around 30 miles of trails in Haleakala, none of which are wheelchair accessible. One of the overlooks is, though and the summit has a huge parking lot, which is paved. There are two scenic overlooks on the way up to the next Visitor Center. One you stop at on the way up and the other on the way down. The first overlook, Leleiwi is at 8, 840 feet. You have already been driving through clouds but getting out and feeling them is really an experience.
The other Visitor Center is 11 miles past the park entrance and is open daily from sunrise to 3:00pm. Restrooms and water are available here and this is where we picked up our hiking guide.
If you are here during a Ranger talk you'll learn a lot. Going back down we stopped again at the Haleakala Visitor Center for the Sliding Sands hike. This is a great hike which I highly recommend. This trail starts at 9,740 feet and descends 4 miles to the valley floor. Going back is very difficult because of the grade, elevation and lack of oxygen so it expect to spend twice as long hiking back up as you did hiking back down.
Enjoy Hawaii - it's paradise!
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