Istanbul Review

I love Istanbul, Turkey!  As I student in High School studying history in Newport, RI, I was fascinated by the city that combines the Old World with the new, Asia and Europe, with such seeming simplicity.  So when the Navy asked for volunteers to go to Turkey in 1983 I jumped at the chance.  I have been to Istanbul three times; flying into Turkey for the first time, I had to pass through the city on my way to Sinop.  I went once again on vacation for four days, and finally I visited the city one again on my way out of the country my way back to the United States. 

Istanbul (called Constantinople under the Byzantine Empire), Turkey's largest and most populous city is a modern metropolis and the center of the countries cultural and financial activity.  Istanbul is the world's only city that straddles two continents; Europe on the northern side of the Bosphorus, and Asian (Anatolia) on the southern side of straits.  The city can boast of a long and storied history as the capital city of a number of notable civilizations, chief among them, the Roman Empire (330-395), the Byzantine Empire (395-1204 and 1261-1453), and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922).

It was on my second visit after I had been in country for a year that I got my first real look at the city that had long been the source of my adoration.  My (female) companion and I drove into Istanbul from West, at dusk, during a thunderstorm.  I was driving and learning how to operate a stick at the same time!  It was great!  We got lost several times on the winding streets of the city before we found our hotel, a small affair set aside for American government workers not too far from Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar. The hotel hugged the Bosporus Strait, (a waterway that divides the city and connects the Black Sea to the Mediterranean Sea) and was reasonable priced.  From our hotel we could walk to all of the above attractions without too much strain.

Since we had both been in the country for a year and our Turkish was passable (hers more than mine), we had little trouble getting around, and took our time seeing the sites.  We concentrated on the area around our hotel for the most part because we could walk (despite the car), but we did take a tour of Topkapi Palace (the Palace acted as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1465 to 1853) and the surrounding area. 

We were absolutely mesmerized by the size and beauty of AyaSofya, and the Blue Mosque; they are truly magnificent and rival the best and biggest cathedrals of Europe in grandeur and architectural acumen. In fact AyaSofya (now a museum) was for a span of a thousand years largest cathedral in the world for more than a thousand years, until the Seville Cathedral was completed in 1575, during the European Renaissance.  These two mosques dominate the city skyline and are both easy to visit because they sit facing one another across a common plaza. 

We spent an entire day at the Grand Bazaar, and it was still not enough time to see it all.  Come prepared to barter.  If you have ever bought a car, you'll know what to expect. We never paid what was on the tag, but always bartered with the vendor, until a reasonable price was agreed upon.  The vendors expect you to barter and haggle with them, so by all means have some fun with it!  All things Turkish can be found at the Bazaar; souvenirs, gold & silver jewelry, leather, pottery, handmade rugs and carpets, brass works, linens, mirsham pipes, artwork, Turkish musical recordings, etc., are just some of the things you will find.  

A word (or two) about the food in Turkey.  The Turkish people eat a lot of lamp (donar kabob: delicious!), chicken, and beef, as well a large variety of vegetables, cheeses and freshly baked bread with butter and honey.  Kiosks that sell donar kabob are all over the city.  Do yourself a favor and sample some, it is delicious, but don't let it get cold!  Ice is scarce in Turkey except in chain hotels, as it is in most of Europe and Asia; be prepared to have you drink at room temperature, however most restaurants will honor a request to go to the local market to fetch a cold beverage, usually fruit juice.     

In a coastal city like Istanbul, seafood is also in abundance, but like everywhere in the world is seems, it is expensive.  Order fresh bread in the restaurants, have it toasted lightly, and have the waiter bring you soft butter and honey to eat with it, you'll be in for a treat. 

Bring a good Turkish to English dictionary; you may not need it much in the city, because English is widely spoken, but if you venture into the countryside, it will come in handy.  If you want to rent a car, make sure you have an international license; contact the State Department before you go to help you obtain one.  You may want to take an excursion to the west of the city along the south coast of the Bosphorus Straits that leads to the Sea of Marmara and eventually the Mediterranean Sea.  There are several beautiful little coastal towns nestled along the waterway that are very scenic and romantic, with hotels that are reasonable priced! Don't be afraid to explore.